暴走族がユニフォームのように身につける特攻服をご存知だろうか。グループ名やお気に入りのメッセージと、刺繍が施された懐かしの特攻服。そう、10月17日に発表された「CHRISTIAN DADA(クリスチャン・ダダ)」2014年春夏コレクションのヒントはまさに「暴走族」。「DEFECTIVE – 不完全な美」をテーマに不良文化に焦点をあてた今回のコレクション。モノトーンを中心に半袖のライダース、前・後身頃や襟、サイドなどに施された刺繍のディテール。スカジャンにボンバージャケット、袖の広がったボリューミーなトラペーズライン。フィナーレでは、スペシャルゲストにヘヴィメタバンド「KISS(キッス)」が登場。ゴールドの特攻服姿で登場した彼らは、「70年来のデビュー以来、ファッションブランドとのコラボレーションは初めてとのこと。」
先月9月28日、初の直営店を原宿にオープンした「CHRISTIAN DADA」こちら!。
Christian Dada’s collection presentations have become a staple of Japan Fashion week, whether for theatrics (see ‘Signal/Noise’ from 2011) or for well thought out artful instillations (see ‘Substance’ for SS’13). A few weeks ago we heard of the surprise guests who would be making an appearance at the end of the show and were looking forward to seeing how it would all fit together. Moments upon arriving backstage it was apparent this shows themed played with the iconography of Japanese Biker gangs. The ‘Bosozoku’ style elements included black chrysanthemums, skulls with floral detailing, Japanese style tattoos, wide sleeved kimono-esque cuts and beautiful embroidery which needs to be seen up close to be appreciated. A blink and you might miss it moment came in the form of colorful graphics on shoes and clutch bags which saw Jerry of Tom and Jerry Fame in a Skull Helmet skipping through falling blossom leaves past a multicolored dragon (the print also appeared a few days later on a pair of pants in the CANDY show – more photos soon). As a photographer there are always so many of these details to pick up on in a Dada Show, and although it’s difficult to photograph black in low light (no flash no flash) some gold armor added light at the end of the fashion show tunnel. Just as the audience thought the show was over, the music kicked in and legendary band ‘KISS’ appeared from behind the screen to lead the models in the final walk through. In Japan for a live show KISS had reached out to Japan fashion week for an appearance hook-up for which Dada was seen as the best fit. Only one member could fit the custom made gold jacket over his full KISS regalia – it was random, fun, and a masterstroke in fashion week buzz (see a little video I made on my instagram). It contrasted largely with the small detailed elements I have mentioned in the show but the real-deal buyers see the clothes at the show room and with Dada’s new shop (info here) customers have a place to see collections up-close and personal. This show continued to further the name of a young designer who is just two and a half years into showing at fashion week.