就任後初となるエディ・スリマンが手がける「セリーヌ」2019年春夏デビューコレクション。前任のフィービー・ファイロが築きあげてきたモダンで無駄のない美しいフォルム。4年間のサンローランを経て約2年ぶりにランウェイに戻ってきたエディ。やはりエディはエディでしかない。確立した美学を彼なりに解釈し、新生「セリーヌ」にロックな要素を落とし込んだエディ・スリマン。ディオール、サンローランの時と同じタイプのスキニー、細めのタイ、タイトなアウターと、80年代のスタイルを大いに用いた96体のルック。うん、懐かしい、エディらしいという言葉しか浮かばず、サンローランのデビューコレクション時と同じような気持ちに。メンズモデルのアイテムは全てユニセックスでウィメンズ展開も対応。
新たなZ世代に向けたセリーヌ的戦略、パリの歴史的建造物、オテル・デ・アンバリッドをロケーションに、レディ・ガガやCLと多くの著名人が駆けつけたほか、未来のスター Z世代のスキニーキッズの姿が。また、「セリーヌ」の新しいロゴを施したモエ・エ・シャンドンのミニモエの姿も。
CELINE SS19: Republican Guard Drummer, Lady Gaga, CL and Celine Mini Moet champagne bottle
Hedi Slimane’s debut for Celine was as many expected, but with the full realization that his predecessors incarnation of the brand was no more, they cried foul. Mourning the loss of a brand that catered to a specific demographic of modern women detractors have gone as far as to suggest that it’s time Slimane got his own name brand rather that rebranding another house in his established aesthetic. If the rhetoric used is familiar, it’s the same that was heard after Slimane’s debut for Saint Laurent. That tenure resulted in record sales figures for the Kering owned brand. LVMH are obviously hoping for a similar return with skinny cut suits and 80’s style prom dresses.
A few take aways… The drummer that opened the show is part of France’s Republican Guard and the show took place in the shadow of Napoleans tomb. The soundtrack to the show, ‘RUNWAY’ is by french band La Femme. Pop superstars from East and West were present with both CL and Lady Gaga in attendance. The pop-art prints an embroideries in the collection are a limited edition collaboration with artist Christian Marclay. All of the menswear presented is unisex and will be available in women’s sizes. Guests at the show and backstage enjoyed Celine branded bottles of Mini Moët.